Thinking of new board - not a begginer question

[IB_Surfer]

I have been getting hard rails on my boards the past 4 years. I'm heavy so it really helps hold up in steep surf. I know I'm probably giving up a little speed but I dig how the board goes accross the face instead of down it.

[IB_Surfer]

Well, I've been stubbornly taking out the new board and I can ride it, but I'm having fits on it. At times my feet totally miss the center of the board, other times the nose comes up because my front foot need to press down more than my other boards. On my old board I had a high wave count, this one I'm batting 50/50 which is not normal for me, it's driving me crazy. I have caught some awesome rides, but I miss catching every wave I try for.

Not sure, I know I can learn to ride it, buy at 43yrs old, 200lbs I'm just not sure I want to re-learn to surf, I surf good enough without being frustrated on my bigger boards. Maybe 6'5" is as small as I'll ever go.

Might have a board for sale, still thinking about it.

[trifish]

Im suprised 3 inches is making such a difference for ya. Did you give it a shot with some of your other fins on it?

[drowningbitbybit]

Not sure, I know I can learn to ride it, buy at 43yrs old, 200lbs I'm just not sure I want to re-learn to surf, I surf good enough without being frustrated on my bigger boards. Maybe 6'5" is as small as I'll ever go.

I'm 6' and around 175lb and anything below around 6'3 (standard shortboard) gets real tedious real quick
I can surf much shorter boards - for comedy or sheer bloodymindedness - but I need to catch the waves so late, or put so much effort into it, that it stops being fun.

I far prefer an extra couple of inches (anyone who wishes to revive the 'That's What She Said' thread, begin here) to make the surfing fun rather than a frustrating effort.

[dougirwin13]

"That's what she said!"

[IB_Surfer]

To answer questions: yes I tried new fins. It's 3 inches shorter but also a squash and I'm used to rounded thumbs, not sure if that has a difference. As to the size, you are right, sometimes I trade with my smaller sized surfers and I have surfed as little as a 5'10", but would not want to all the time, too much effort and too much sink for my 200lb arse, but it's fun to show them that I can surf, they think I'll sink when I use theirs LOL. However, I had a 6'1" fish and just ordered another one, them fishes are thick and wide so I could probably go much lower, just don't want to.

Just in case I tested my ability to see if maybe I was having an off couple of weeks of surfing. Yesterday my local break was a couple of feet overhead, I miffed a couple of takeoffs but also had some awesome rides on the 6'2". Today I took out my 6'5 carbon, almost same conditions. I did not miss a single wave, no bad pop-up's, no bobbles. Still thinking about it though, still not sure if I want to pursue a smaller size or just give up on it. Great input, keep it comming

[trifish]

Then I think you know what you want to do. You have been surfing a long time and you know pretty much whats working and whats not from your experience. For whatever reason this board isnt working for you. If I was in your situation I would be trying to find out what the problem is with it. Is it the length, tail, volume, etc. Personally I really dont think the length is the issue for you. If I recall correctly your around my height (5'8" or 5'9") so your still half a foot or so shorter then your board. Ive had a 6'3"thruster, 5'11" retro, and just got a 6'2" x 19 x 2.5 thruster that I love and im 5'9" and weigh around 180lbs. The guy put a tail on the board thats a mix between a squash and thumb and im really digging it. Maybe its just the vol and tail thats throwing you off. What about going for something around 6'2" x 19.5 x 2 5/8 in the center with your normal thumb or a mix between a squash and thumb and see how that goes?

[IB_Surfer]

Yeah, not sure right now. I usually buy used boards until I get the size down then order custom, thought I had this wired. I might have to start buying used again until I get the size right. Will keep at it, might be a fun followup

[IB_Surfer]

Decided to stick it out, might as well try to get better and not assume that I'm as good as I'll ever get.

I bought some Carbon Fiber fins, GR-X fins, I thought they are the Rusty template but they seem small, I put them next to my M3's and they are almost the same size.

I tried them today on the board and it was not squirley, and I did not get the stalling I experienced before, but they kinda slipped out a little. So, I think for this board I can't use my favorite GMB fins, might be too big for the setup. So, I have a set of k3's I'll try next.

[jb987]

Is the entire black pattern design on top made of carbon fiber? It looks like it might be.

What is a "hard rail" on the shortboard, and why do you like that better?

[IB_Surfer]

Is the entire black pattern design on top made of carbon fiber? It looks like it might be.

Yep, top is carbon fiber, the blank has no stringer so the carbon acts as a stringer for less weight.

What is a "hard rail" on the shortboard, and why do you like that better?

The sides of the board are the rails. Hard rails ave a square edge on the bottom, soft rails have a rounded edge on the bottom. Hard rails help dig into waves, keeping the board higher on steep waves. Soft rails slide down the wave easier, you get a faster board that usually is easier to paddle and more forgiving in chop. On most shortboards the hard rails are on the tail, they end at the fins and become soft. Mine are hard almost past the middle of the board.

[IB_Surfer]

So am keeping her. I put on a set of rusty carbon fiber fins, super small, about a size 3. I think I was stalling the board too much with the bigger fins, it seems to be working a lot better for me. Used it yesterday and today in shoulder high surf, caught waves with no problem. Still have a slight problem with foot placement, but it might be that it's time to go on a diet.

Also had an epiphany, to not ride it is to assume that I'm as good as I'm going to get, I rather keep getting better.

[pjsurfer]

That is an amazing board.

[IB_Surfer]

I've been digging it lately, been riding it in small stuff and I really got the feel of it now. Stoked I kept it.

[IB_Surfer]

Update: ended up having to remove the pad and move it up an inch or so, was too far back and was causing stalling. Might be my fat arse riding a 6'2" board, but as soon as I replaced the pad position it made a 100% difference. Now I have ridden it in all type of conditions and size and have got it kind of wired down:

I ended up ordering a set of rusty carbon fiber fins and loving the setup. They are really small, like size 3, but they are toed and canted more so they seem to hold great even though they are small fins. I am 50/50 as to the Merrick template, on the one hand I can ride it fine and have been having a blast on it but I seem to like my thumb tail boards better.

I've used it in head high hollow and shallow shorebreak in IB and on overhead and a half lines at Churches in O.C., performed great but I can tell the smallness when paddling for waves, or rather I can tell my fatness when paddling for waves LOL. But still, I don't miss too many waves, just find my bigger boards easier to paddle. Still, I like it a lot, it's my go-to board for most conditions up to overhead, I like my 6'5" better in bigger surf and my fish in mushier waves, but the 6'2" has become my workhorse board.

So, all in all 9 out of 10, I think for the next iteration I will stick to a thumbtail, but this is a fun board!!